1) Lashes to Lust: Rather than simply brush on black mascara and call it a day, backstage beautifiers brought in everything from brightly-hued mascara to artfully placed lower-lash falsies to painted-on batters. At Jeremy Scott, makeup artist Kabuki heightened the pigment payoff of his chosen eye shadow shade by coating lashes in the corresponding color mascara. If you want to mimic this idea with color lash extensions, Glad Lash founder Esther Bolkin suggests reacquainting yourself with the color wheel: “Pick a complementary color to the color of your client’s eyes,” she says. Think: blue lash extensions for brown eyes; violet or aubergine lashes for green eyes; and auburn lashes for blue eyes. “If your client seeks a more subtle pop of color, they can try two-tone lash extensions that have a black base while the rest of the lash is the highlight color (like blue or purple),” Bolkin says. When it comes to lashing the lower lid with falsies, as seen at Marc Jacobs, Bolkin has two words: knot free. Due to the sparse nature of the lower lash line, knots can be an unattractive addition. She also suggests using the “shortest flare lash length” to not overpower the eye and to employ some inventiveness on your part: “You can pull apart individual lash clusters and apply them in smaller groups for the best effect,” she says.
2) Embrace the Rainbow: Blinding color - Does anything feel more spring-like than that? Eyes brandished color in one of two ways: a slew of hues or a single color arranged in a geometric shape. For lids that play host to two or more colors, Aveda global artistic director of makeup Janell Geason says, “Think about color theory when placing shades. Colors that will overlap should lie next to each other on the color wheel or your design will get muddy.” Be sure to work in one medium, says Colorlab Cosmetics founder Mary Swaab. “Choose all cream or all powder to help ensure blendability,” she explains. As for the shape du jour for eye shadow—a rectangle—Smith & Cult beauty ambassador Ashlee Glazer doles out this completely wearable alternative: “Draw the rectangular shape in a ‘blown-out wing’ so it’s a soft sweep as opposed to a severe geometric shape,” she says. Then, “blend a warm, skintone shade to soften the crease without rounding it out.”
Eyes weren’t the only feature to display vivid color; lips got in on the act, too. When choosing mega-bold lip products, Glazer zeros in on opacity—the more opaque, the better. “I prefer a super-retro-matte, opaque formula; the powderlike effect tends to deposit the most pigment,” she says. For clients who dislike matte finishes, Swaab recommends sheer bright formulas; “they’re perfect for the client who desires to wear this trend but wants to play it a little safe.” Definitely not safe: the color-block lip at the Cushine et Ochs show. Makeup artists exercised imagination by painting the bottom lip pink and the top lip red for an unusual color-block effect sure to be testdriven by your more adventurous clients. To bring this trend into your salon, “Choose colors with the same undertone; this will keep the balance when your client inevitably smacks her lips together,” Glazer laughs.
3) Arch Arrival: The battle between brushed-up and bold and zeroed-out and bleached raged on backstage, but what became very clear: Brows remain front-and-center in beauty. While bleached brows are having a moment on models, Zoey Van Jones, eyebrow artist and founder of her eponymous Brow Studio in Pasadena, California, sees this as experimentation for makeup artists and die-hard beauty trend hunters. Instead, she points to the fuller, more natural side of the trend as what will have clients seeking your artistry. Her advice to tackle the trend head-on: Guide clients toward growth. “Natural brows take approximately two to six months to grow out,” she says, pointing to brow growth serums as a way to expedite the process. Encourage regular brow-shaping visits; Van Jones says, “We do plenty of brow grow-outs at my salon; you just need to add a little each visit for a few months. Also, try trimming less or not at all to achieve a feathery look.” Additionally, she suggests fi lling or marking the brows prior to shaping to expand the size slightly and ensure you don’t take away anything that’s needed for a fuller appearance. Finally, retail your client tinted or clear brow gel; “this helps stretch brows, maximizing their size,” says Van Jones.
4) Feel the Blush: Blush is a beauty staple; most women don’t think twice about its application. But this spring, makeup pros challenged traditional blush artistry by lifting the color up into the temples or intensifying the color tenfold. “‘Blush draping’ is the new contouring!” exclaims Swaab of the unexpected placement. “Simply chisel out your client’s cheekbone with large brushstrokes of blush … blend the product up and out on the cheek, and swipe gently into the temple area and onto the eye.”
To master this new approach, Geason advises building as you go; “apply a little and then build, making sure you blend edges seamlessly to stop it from looking too ’80s.” If your application reads too harsh, she suggests using a clean kabuki brush and a little translucent powder to soften the color. Or, if you want to avoid blush oversaturation from the get-go, Swaab recommends these three steps: Dust the area where you’ll be laying down bold color with translucent powder first; then, dip your brush into the powder again and, without removing any, dip your brush into your blush. Then, sweep the blend across skin for a more “diluted, watercolor effect,” she says.
5) The Disconnect: Eyeliner found itself interrupted by stretches of skin— and the effect was eye-catching, to say the least. “This is a super-fun, creative and economically friendly trend since we all have black liners in our beauty kits!” Glazer laughs. It’s also incredibly flattering; “open-ended liner, especially when applied just to the inner and outer corners, creates a wide-open-eye effect,” says Swaab. Add and subtract to meet your clients’ whims; as Swaab notes, “Think of it as free-form artistry; it’s being done in so many different ways. It just depends on what you want to emphasize.”
6) Glow Getters: Not surprisingly, the spring shows ushered in loads of metallic finishes, from sparkling loose pigment to chromelike liner to glowing highlighter. Silver, pewter, rose gold and gold—nothing is off limits. “I think the time of year, skin tone, outfit and jewelry your client wears determines what metallic you choose,” says Glazer. “Also, factor in how bold she wants to be. A silver on deep skin tones is more striking and unexpected than gold and vice versa.” While a lit from-within glow was a dime a dozen backstage, makeup artist Pat McGrath pushed metallic makeup beyond by tracing Cupid’s bows with striking silver and gold at the Maison Margiela show. “To make this wearable for your salon client, use just a pinch of highlighter on the Cupid’s bow rather than a strong liner to achieve a similar, yet more subtle, effect,” Glazer suggests.
–by Karie L. Frost
[Images: Getty Images]