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Mod Complex with Makeup Artist Katie Jane Hughes

A renewed interest in faux batters may have the masses going massive with their lashes, but makeup artists are taking a studied approach, referencing past decades for inspiration while integrating modern textures and techniques to bring their creations to the here and now. Here, backstage beauty fixture Katie Jane Hughes merges retro lash love with today’s techno- metallic obsession.

Golden Eye

Sixties makeup word association often turns up “Twiggy,” and while the supermodel’s chunky lashes certainly hit their stride during the swinging decade, another word that exemplies the era’s face-painting is “banana.” Yes, the banana crease technique deepened eye sockets, becoming ubiquitous with the popular ’60s doe-eyed beauty ideal. Giving the style a refresh, Hughes trades out traditional dark matte shadow for a modern molten gold with insane light-bouncing capabilities. For lashes, she tempers the thickness over the iris, instead concentrating weight toward the outer edges so as not to obscure the refection of her gilded artistry. On model: Ardell Natural Lashes in 110 Black and Ardell Duralash Individuals in Medium Black,; Pat McGrath Labs Metalmorphisis 005 in Gold,

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Below the Glow

No stranger to spidery lower lashes, actress Shelley Duvall took spindly eye fringe to next-level greatness during the ’70s—and it’s a falsie fad that’s being revisited on the spring and fall runways (see: Marc Jacobs, Tadashi Shoji, Jeremy Scott and more). Concentrating lashes just beneath the iris puts a beguiling spin on the trend; adding feathery lashes and serious sparkle along the upper lid via a quick- dry, glitter-dense liquid shadow elevates the look. On model: (top lashes) Ardell Demi Wispies Black,; (top and bottom lashes center) Urban Decay Urban Lash in Xris Xross, urbandecay. com; Charlotte Tilbury Luxury Palette in The Glamour Muse,; Stila Cosmetics Magnicent Metals Glitter & Glow Liquid Eye Shadow in Ballet Baby,

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A Lash From the Past

Spiked and spaced, lashes take a page from Twiggy and Co.—but the methodology is quite different in the 21st Century. Rather than meticulously clumping upper and lower lashes with mascara and a fine brush, Hughes adheres a pointed strip up top and individual flares along the lower lash line. To brighten the overall eye design, she hits the inner and outer corners with iridescent silver shadow, applied wet with a mixing medium to intensify the shine. On model: (top lashes) Pür Pro Eyelashes in Jetsetter,; (bottom lashes) Absolute New York Fablashes Knot Free Ultra Thick,; NARS Dual-Intensity Eyeshadow in Lysithea, 

–by Karlie L. Frost